First came the climb. Customized black SUVs picked up guests and transported them 900 feet above sea level, into the Santa Monica Mountains, to a hilltop overlooking a canyon near the Getty Museum. The setting—classical columns, grand scale—was vaguely reminiscent of the Parthenon. The exhibition title, "Silhouettes on the Horizon," was announced in large letters. Inside, artistic director Nadje Vane was about to present the second chapter of her "Women Fall/Winter 2026" collection (the first chapter debuted in Paris in March).
Behind those tall columns, a crowd had gathered, as if at a fashion show. This wasn't your typical Los Angeles crowd: young, devoted Hermès fans, dressed in signature coats made of printed silk scarves, perforated leather dresses, leather shorts with matching jackets, and Hermès riding boots to go with it all. And a literal sea of Kelly bags. Birkin bags had apparently been relegated to the back of a closet. Mini Kelly bags in every size and color, wrapped in classic Hermès scarves—some barely large enough to hold a lipstick—were everywhere. Several guests had charms attached to their mini Kelly bags: Kelly à deux. A wealthy crowd with a relaxed atmosphere.
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British, French, and New York editors mingled with Hollywood stylists, including Jeanne Young, and several celebrities (a rare sight for Hermès, which almost never wears them) joined the pre-show scene: Kerry Washington and her mother, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Miley Cyrus, Natasha Lyonne, and Keke Palmer (in a red bra and matching jeans), the entire group surrounded by none other than Hollywood reality TV doyenne Kathy Hilton. Lyonne, dancing around in a leather corset and jeans, laughed, "I never dressed like this in New York back in the day!" Miley looked true punk rock in a Hermès sleeveless leather minidress and high heeled boots, accompanied by her fiancé Max Morando, drummer for the band Liily – pure punk rock.
As the show began, a specially created "golden hour" effect highlighted Hermès' signature luxurious fabrics: soft leather, suede, silk, and chiffon. Every look was monochromatic from head to toe—black, brown, bright red, and vibrant California colors like buttery yellow and turquoise. A yellow strapless dress with an egg-shaped skirt paired with suede riding boots? Sounds impossible. But it looked stunning. Supermodel Karen Elson, a redhead who hadn't appeared on the runway in years, modeled a fiery red version. Black leather belts, worn as bra tops, paired with long, flowing sheer chiffon skirts and boots, created a chic, punk vibe.
In her program notes, Vani described the combination of hardness and softness as «an interplay of tension and relaxation» – expanding Hermès’s expertise beyond its heritage in leather and silk, towards flu (In fashion parlance, this means flowing). Chic leather suits, fitted leather jackets with midi skirts, leather shorts, and a plethora of dancer-inspired looks were on display. But with simple hair and makeup, these clothes would have been equally at home on L.A. club influencers and Park Avenue ladies. Topanga Canyon hippie looks seemed to inspire just as much as French chic.
After the show, Vanya didn't retreat quickly, as the languid Jonathan Anderson had done a few weeks earlier at Dior. Her flowing curly red hair fluttered as she ran the length of the winding runway, breaking the tradition of European designers retreating.
Then the crowd surged downhill and found itself in a much more familiar Los Angeles situation: SUVs, trying to slowly make their way down the hill, blocked the narrow roads, turning a seemingly unimpeded exit into an annoying hour-long wait—for some, even two. Traffic jams are more likely to be expected after the Golden Globes than after a Hermès show.
Well, this only reinforced the feeling that Hermès is increasingly comfortable on the West Coast—and that Hollywood is embracing the brand's suddenly edgy new vibe. If you see flat riding boots paired with leather shorts at summer cocktail parties, at the Hollywood Bowl, or on Taylor Swift, don't be surprised.
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