Automotive myths cost you twice: first, they force you to spend money where it's unnecessary, and then they create a false sense of safety behind the wheel. Below are twenty of the most persistent misconceptions about cars, their operation, and winter driving that are time to leave behind.
Myths about operation and maintenance
1. Passport consumption is the actual consumption
The figure in the registration certificate is the result of a laboratory test: smooth road, zero traffic, driver weight no more than 60 kg. In reality, city fuel consumption exceeds the registration figure by 2–4 liters, depending on conditions. The difference is especially noticeable in compact cars with small engine displacements: the higher the load relative to the power, the greater the fuel consumption.
The final fuel consumption is affected by: vehicle occupancy, road surface quality, number of stops, air temperature, and air conditioning mode. The data sheet is a reference for comparing models, but is not a basis for calculating actual fuel consumption.
2. When stopped in a traffic jam, you need to switch to «P» or «N»
A common recommendation is to shift the automatic transmission into "P" or "N" during long stops to save fuel and extend its life. In reality, frequently switching between modes puts significantly more strain on the automatic transmission's friction components than simply holding the brake in "D.".
This type of shifting has virtually no effect on fuel consumption. If your hand simply gets tired of holding the brake, use the parking brake. The automatic transmission is designed to operate normally without any unnecessary manipulation.
3. Warming up the engine is mandatory before each trip.
The habit of warming up a car for 10-15 minutes is a legacy of the era of carbureted engines, which truly couldn't run properly when cold. Modern fuel-injected engines don't require a long warm-up: electronics adjust the mixture composition to engine temperature within seconds.
After starting, the oil reaches all working surfaces in approximately 60–90 seconds. After this, you can begin driving—but smoothly, without sudden acceleration, allowing the engine to warm up to operating temperature under moderate load. Long idling warm-ups waste fuel and strain the engine without any practical benefit.
4. If you add oil, you don’t need to change it.
An engine consuming oil is a common problem, especially in older cars. Many drivers simply top up the oil to the recommended level, believing that's enough. This is a dangerous misconception.
The fresh oil you add mixes with the old, used oil, which is saturated with combustion products, suspended metal, and acids. The mixture may appear clear, but its protective properties are significantly reduced. The oil filter retains large particles but is unable to remove chemical contaminants. The result is accelerated piston wear and the risk of engine seizure. A scheduled oil change, including the filter, is essential, regardless of whether the oil is leaking.
5. A garage is better than an outdoor parking lot for storing a car.
The logic seems obvious: a garage protects from rain, snow, and frost. But it's not so straightforward. Most private garages are poorly ventilated, which creates high humidity. During thaws, snow from the garage body melts inside, the moisture doesn't evaporate, and settles on the metal—this is how hidden corrosion begins in sills, arches, and welds.
A car parked outdoors dries and airs out faster. In cold weather, the body remains frozen and doesn't go through the "freeze-thaw-wet" cycle several times a day. A heated, well-ventilated garage is ideal. An unheated, damp garage is often worse than the street.
6. Expensive gasoline makes the car more powerful.
The key characteristic of gasoline is its octane rating, which indicates its resistance to detonation. Using 98 octane when the manufacturer recommends 95 octane is pointless: the engine will not gain any power or improve performance. The engine is tuned for a specific fuel and operates optimally with it.
Premium fuels contain additional cleaning additives that help keep injectors and combustion chambers clean. This is beneficial for engine life, but has nothing to do with power. Fueling with an octane rating lower than the recommended one is harmful. Fueling with an octane rating higher than the recommended one is a waste of money.
7. Open windows are more energy-efficient than air conditioning.
Air conditioning does increase fuel consumption—by approximately 0.3–0.8 l/100 km, depending on the operating mode. However, open windows at speeds above 80 km/h create aerodynamic drag, which eats up a comparable amount of fuel or even more.
Conclusion: in city driving at low speeds, the difference is minimal. On the highway, it's best to close the windows and turn on the air conditioning. The myth about "air conditioning being dangerous to your health" also doesn't hold up, provided the cabin filter is replaced regularly and the air conditioning system is serviced.
8. Repairs only at an official service station
An authorized dealer is justified during the warranty period: servicing by unauthorized mechanics may void the car's warranty. However, after the warranty period expires, this restriction is lifted, and the overpayment remains.
For routine maintenance—oil changes, filters, brake pads, and spark plugs—any reputable repair shop is sufficient, or you can do the work yourself if you have the tools and skills. Scanner diagnostics are now available at any service center, and the hourly rate for independent mechanics is 1.5 to 3 times lower than that of authorized dealers. The exception is complex work on electronics, automatic transmissions, or bodywork, where equipment and skills are crucial.
9. A spoiler improves the aerodynamics of any car.
Spoilers and wings only work when they're designed for a specific vehicle, taking into account its aerodynamic profile, weight distribution, and axle loads. Factory aerodynamic elements are designed in wind tunnels and produce real-world results at speeds of 90–120 km/h and above.
A spoiler purchased commercially and installed "for aesthetics" will likely compromise the car's aerodynamics, add weight, and increase fuel consumption. For the average car driven in urban conditions and on public roads, such elements offer no practical benefit.
10. You can fool the camera with speed.
The theory that cameras can't read license plates at speeds above 290 km/h has long been circulating. In practice, modern speed cameras operate with a delay of fractions of a millisecond and recognize license plates at speeds physically unachievable for most production cars.
Attempts to "cheat" the camera—laminating license plates, shining laser reflectors, or obscuring the numbers—are classified as separate administrative violations. The only reliable way to avoid a fine is to obey the speed limit.
Winter Driving Myths
In winter, the cost of driving errors is higher than at any other time of year. Some of these errors are fueled by persistent myths about vehicle performance on slippery surfaces.
11. There is no need to warm up the car in winter.
Modern cars don't require a long warm-up period, but that doesn't mean it can be completely ignored in freezing temperatures. At sub-zero temperatures, engine oil thickens: even synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-40 oils become more viscous at temperatures below -20°C. A few minutes of warm-up will ensure proper oil circulation and reduce wear on components when starting off.
Long warm-up at idle (more than 3–5 minutes) is also not advisable: the engine reaches operating temperature faster when driving under moderate load than when parked.
12. ABS prevents skidding
ABS—anti-lock braking system—has one specific purpose: preventing the wheels from locking under braking, maintaining control. It reduces braking distances on hard, dry surfaces, but on ice and loose snow, braking distances with ABS can be longer. longer, than with locked wheels.
ABS doesn't prevent skidding due to improper steering or compensate for excessive speed on a turn. If the driver takes a slippery turn too quickly, no electronics will keep the car on the road.
13. Drivers from the north drive better in winter.
Experience living in a harsh climate provides some advantage, but doesn't guarantee mastery. Good winter driving isn't a habit, but a skill that requires targeted practice: practicing on a snowy rink, understanding the physics of skidding, and learning to use the steering wheel and throttle correctly when traction is lost.
Accident statistics in the northern regions confirm this: the number of accidents in winter increases proportionally, even where snow lies for half a year. Experience with daily driving in snow is no substitute for defensive driving training.
14. For winter, you need to reduce the tire pressure.
Underinflation widens the tire's contact patch—this helps in deep snow or off-road driving. However, in typical urban winter conditions (packed snow, ice, wet asphalt), underinflation impairs handling, increases fuel consumption, and accelerates lateral tire wear.
The optimal tire pressure in winter is the one recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. If necessary, you can lower it slightly (by 0.2–0.3 atm) for off-road driving only, returning it to the normal pressure immediately after returning to normal road conditions.
15. There is no need to remove snow from the roof.
Snow on the roof and hood isn't an aesthetic issue, but a safety concern. Firstly, a layer of snow adds 5-15 kg of extra weight, which is insignificant but does affect braking distance. Secondly, during hard braking, snow from the roof slides onto the windshield, completely obscuring your view. Thirdly, snow flying off the roof of your car on the highway poses a real hazard to drivers behind you.
In many countries, failing to clear snow from your vehicle is an administrative offense. Clearing snow from the entire vehicle takes two minutes and can prevent a serious accident.
16. All-wheel drive makes you a professional driver
All-wheel drive significantly improves acceleration and traction on slippery surfaces, but has no effect on braking. All other things being equal, the braking distance of an all-wheel drive vehicle is the same as that of a front-wheel drive vehicle. The feeling of extra control provided by 4WD often leads to excessive speed, which is what causes accidents.
All-wheel drive is a tool, not an insurance policy. Its benefits are only realized when combined with quality winter tires and proper driving.
17. Rear-wheel drive is dangerous in winter.
A rear-wheel drive car does require more careful throttle control when starting off and turning. Oversteer—a characteristic of rear-wheel drive—is unpleasant for beginners. However, an experienced driver with high-quality winter tires has no fundamental limitations.
Moreover, many professional drivers prefer rear-wheel drive in winter precisely because of its more controlled handling during skids: the car is easier to catch and correct. In rallycross and winter competitions, rear-wheel drive is the standard, not a disadvantage.
18. All-season tires replace winter tires
All-season tires are a compromise that works well in mild winters, without consistent snow cover or ice. At temperatures below 7°C, the rubber compound of all-season tires begins to lose elasticity, reducing traction. On ice, the difference in braking distance between a winter tire and an all-season tire can be 20–40%.
A set of winter tires on separate rims is an economically viable solution: each set wears out twice as slowly, and the combined service life of both sets is longer than that of a single set of all-season tires used year-round.
19. A crossover is the best choice for winter
Increased ground clearance and all-wheel drive give the crossover a real advantage when driving in slush and off-road. But the laws of physics are the same for all vehicles. A heavier SUV on a slippery road means longer braking distances, a higher center of gravity, and poorer maneuverability during emergency maneuvers.
Insurance company statistics confirm that crossover owners are just as likely to be involved in winter accidents as sedan owners. The reason is overconfidence and a lack of respect for safety.
20. An expensive car will correct the driver's mistakes.
Modern active safety systems—ESP, ABS, collision warning systems, lane keeping assist—significantly reduce the consequences of driver error. But none of them can override the basic laws of physics: if the speed is too high for the road conditions, no electronics will keep the car on the road. An SUV with winter tires and all the available options requires the same following distance, the same deceleration on icy roads, and the same care in cornering as a budget hatchback.
Driving skills are not acquired with a car; they are developed through practice and, preferably, through training in specialized driving schools.
The main conclusion
Most automotive myths share one common thread: they either cost money (unnecessary replacements, unnecessary upgrades, expensive fuel of the wrong brand) or create the illusion of safety where none exists. A critical approach to established "advice" and a basic understanding of how a car works will save not only your budget but also your health.